The region, in the south-west of New Zealand's South Island, has no roads, no towns, and little evidence of human presence since Captain James Cook became the first non-indigenous visitor in 1773. During Cook's second expedition, naturalist Johann Forster described Fiordland's isolation: 'Here, was the deepest silence. Nature was hushed, not a breath of wind penetrated to this sheet of water enclosed by high mountains and great forests.'
Skipper Francis Brundell, who navigates the area on an 18-passenger, 24-metre cruising catamaran built for the fjords, said the remoteness is unmatched. 'Fiordland has to be the loneliest place on Earth. It is a beast. God, I love it,' Brundell said.
The author's six-night expedition encountered only one other vessel - a lobster boat with a crew of three - on the final day. At about 40 kilometres long, Dusky Sound is the largest fjord in Fiordland. The park is serviced by a handful of expedition boats, a fraction of the tourism infrastructure seen at comparable destinations such as Norway's fjords.