The article recounts the author's long interest in Jeju, sparked by research into freediving and the island's haenyeo. The women dive without oxygen tanks, holding their breath for up to two and a half minutes while harvesting sea urchins, octopus and abalone from depths of between 10 and 20 metres. Many are in their 70s and 80s and have become celebrities. In 2024 they were the subject of the documentary The Last of the Sea Women, and the practice holds a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage listing.
At Seongsan Ilchulbong, more than 100 tourists gathered to watch as the women prepared for a morning dive. 'It's about the hardships they've endured,' the author's guide said. The article notes the haenyeo have become a daily tourist spectacle, but watching them dive still carries emotional weight. 'This may be a daily tourist spectacle, but watching the women harvest the seafloor in this way, as generations of Jeju women have done before them, makes the hairs on my arms stand up.'