Michelin Guide inspectors, anonymous and secretive, have been dining at venues across South Australia in an operation that unfolded under staff and diners' noses this year. The restaurants were unwittingly competing for one of the highest honours in international cuisine: a Michelin Star. If any reach those heights, it will be an Australian first.
No Australian restaurant currently holds a star. The guide was developed by the Michelin brothers in the late 1800s as a boost to their tyre business in France's nascent automotive industry, originally serving as a driving guide with maps and tips for drivers, including places to eat and stay. While it has been a benchmark for diners in France and elsewhere in Europe for over a century, it only expanded to Asia and the Americas in the 2000s, and many of those places have paid to lure inspectors to their regions.
In July, New Zealand became the first place in Oceania to get a Michelin Star, after reportedly paying $6.3 million over three years for the privilege. Michelin had long been attempting a similar foray into Australia, first approaching Tourism Australia in 2016. The national authority decided against it, but South Australia has gone its own way, with the state government footing the bill. The SA government said the price it paid was confidential for commercial reasons, and has not revealed any ongoing costs from the deal.
Travel and food writer Ben Groundwater welcomed the guide's arrival, saying it puts local restaurants alongside the best in the world. "Michelin is the Olympics, it's a worldwide standard," he said. "You're not competing with people around the world, but it is a global benchmark. It is a way of holding yourself up against those legends."
Tourism Minister Emily Bourke said the deal was worth it. "It goes beyond the benefits of the plate, it goes beyond the benefits of a restaurant, it is enabling us to create a tourism destination and put us on the world map," she said. "It's going to get people coming to South Australia, they're already coming here for our food and wine, but this really re-enforces that story that we stand amongst the best in the world."