Thyme, the full-service restaurant at Alba Thermal Springs and Spa, has drawn a comparison to the 1991 film Defending Your Life, in which the recently deceased wear matching white robes and eat delicious, calorie-free food. At Thyme, diners also wear white robes and eat food that, while not calorie-free, aims for lightness and pleasure without the dullness of traditional health food.
The restaurant opened with Alba in 2022 and initially had its menu written by consulting chef Karen Martini and executed by head chef Mario Di Natale. Both have since parted ways with the venue. New head chef Michael Demagistris, most recently at Max's Restaurant in Red Hill and previously at Polperro Winery and Sorrento Golf Club, is now in charge and the menu is evolving, though some of Martini's recipes remain.
The review highlights several dishes, including a vegan-friendly Sichuan bolognese made with tofu and shiitake mushrooms on wide, flat rye udon noodles, described as one of the most satisfying vegan dishes the critic has had. A grain bowl with red rice, tataki ocean trout, kohlrabi kimchi, avocado and a soft egg offered opulence rather than asceticism. A now-removed scallop dish with silken tofu, crisp okra and sweet corn sauce demonstrated the kitchen's cleverness. Desserts include a dark chocolate mousse with chilli-caramel sauce and sesame brittle.
Cocktails are light and herb-forward, with an espresso martini also available. The wine list is almost entirely local, featuring Mornington Peninsula producers.
The review notes that Thyme is not for bargain-hunters. The grain bowl costs nearly $50, and a small piece of prawn toast with a single tiger prawn is $33. The cost for two, excluding drinks, is about $175. Alba is significantly more expensive than the hot springs across the road, though towels and robes are included in the base price.
The critic recommends Thyme for a special occasion, an activity with an out-of-town visitor, or an act of self-love, calling the combination of bathing and dining a true destination experience.