The humble wristwatch is ticking again. A combination of celebrity influence, a desire for sustainable fashion, and a need for tangible investments is driving a surge in interest in vintage timepieces, especially among women and Gen Z.
Tania Duong, 36, swapped a pharmacy career to study watchmaking in Switzerland at the prestigious WOSTEP school, the only woman in her class of eight. Her family has run a watchmaking business for generations in Melbourne. “From the outside, the industry can seem quite intimidating, but I hope my experience can show other women that it’s possible to enter this field, even with minimal experience,” she said.
Melbourne-based Anastasia Tarassova, founder of Atceatera Vintage, has seen the trend flourish through weekly markets and a pop-up store in Carlton. “Watches are very classic, but there’s romance too. They carry memories from childhood,” she said. Her most popular brand is Seiko, and daintier cocktail watches are back in fashion.
Alastair Low, country manager for eBay’s Live platform in Australia, noted that younger buyers are ignoring traditional gender labels. “The younger generation aren’t following the rules of what’s traditionally a ‘men’s’ or ‘women’s watch’. They’re purchasing watches that reflect their style,” he said.
In New York, Brynn Wallner, founder of the women’s watch platform Dimepiece, has championed small watches for years. She pointed to high-profile men like Tyler, The Creator and Bad Bunny wearing smaller timepieces. “To see guys in downtown NYC wear small watches is how I imagine it was in the 1990s and 2000s when women started wearing 40mm+ watches,” she said.
Clare Smith, a former Jaeger-LeCoultre marketing executive, launched vintage watch sourcing business Uncomplicated Times last month. Her clientele skews female. “I want to show people that you can own a vintage Rolex for under $10,000. People just automatically assume it’s a $30,000 watch,” she said. For many, vintage watches offer both value and sentimental meaning.
Cal Best, 27, began collecting Casio G-Shock watches in high school and now runs a successful eBay business. He said the boom supercharged during COVID and sees Gen Z using watches as an alternative to property investment. “The property market is so inflated. So they’re finding a watch to put their money into. I’m even seeing some skip out on buying their first car to buy one,” he said.
