Washington DC voters have approved a ban on force-feeding birds to enlarge their livers and importing products derived from that process, with nearly three-quarters backing the measure in a vote that divided local chefs and put Australian restaurateur Alex Butterworth at the centre of the city’s foie gras debate.
The ban, which also covers importing products derived from force-feeding birds to enlarge their livers, was pushed by the group Pro-Animal DC. A 2023 poll commissioned by an animal rights group found 78 per cent support for a ban. Mayor-elect Janeese Lewis George was among those who voted for it.
Alex Butterworth, the Australian co-founder of Butterworth’s restaurant on Capitol Hill, has had foie gras on its menu since the restaurant opened in October 2024. It quickly became a favourite for the MAGA crowd and visiting conservatives, and on election night its function room was booked out by the DC Republican Party.
"It's been amazing, the level of media interest," Butterworth said. "It's somewhat of an obscure, just DC-based issue but, obviously, it has potential nationwide implications. All of these things start somewhere."
Butterworth and the major foie gras producers have signalled plans to challenge the ban. "DC government is already struggling with losing small business to Virginia and Maryland, and this is another slice in the death by a thousand bureaucratic paper cuts for DC small business," he said. "[But] DC is very politically progressive, so the result is not a surprise."
The proposed ban divided local chefs. Biagio Cepollaro, owner of Roma Pizzeria, wrote in DC Journal that the force-feeding process caused "significant suffering" to the animals and should not be encouraged. But Jose Andres, the celebrity chef, questioned whether the ban made sense. "So, we are banning all meats? If duck goes, all goes next?" he wrote on X last month. There were bigger issues facing Americans, he said.
Butterworth's chef and co-owner Bart Hutchins, who relished his role as Washington's chief foie gras advocate, says foie gras can be a useful entry point for encouraging people to eat more of an animal. "We sell the ears, the feet, the kidneys and the livers, everything – because it's wasteful not to."
Analysis
Why This Matters
- The ban could set a precedent for other US cities and states, as Butterworth noted, having "potential nationwide implications."
- It highlights a growing tension between local food businesses and out-of-state animal rights groups, with Pro-Animal DC receiving most of its funding from groups in Oregon and California.
- The enforcement cost could further strain DC's small business environment, which Butterworth says is already struggling to retain businesses against neighbouring Virginia and Maryland.
Background
Washington is a heavily Democratic city, with Kamala Harris winning 92.5 per cent of the vote in 2024. In a one-party town, the foie gras debate emerged as the only issue that divided the electorate. The campaign to ban foie gras was led by Pro-Animal DC, which critics said pitted local chefs and foodies against "out-of-town animal rights activists."
Key Perspectives
Alex Butterworth (Australian co-founder of Butterworth's restaurant): said the result is not a surprise because DC is "very politically progressive," and warned the ban is "another slice in the death by a thousand bureaucratic paper cuts for DC small business."
Biagio Cepollaro (owner of Roma Pizzeria): wrote that the force-feeding process caused "significant suffering" to the animals and should not be encouraged.
Jose Andres (celebrity chef): questioned whether the ban makes sense, asking "So, we are banning all meats? If duck goes, all goes next?" and said there were bigger issues facing Americans.
Stephanie Mercedes (Washington resident): said she voted in favour of the ban, stating: "Of course I don't want birds to be force-fed!"
What to Watch
- Whether Butterworth's and foie gras producers mount a legal challenge, as signalled, and how it fares in court.
- How the DC council allocates resources to enforce the ban, and whether it affects small businesses beyond Butterworth's.
- Whether other cities or states pursue similar ballot initiatives or legislation, given the potential nationwide implications noted by Butterworth.
Checked
12 claims in this story checked against 1 source: 12 supported.
Show each claim
- SupportedWashington voters approved a ban on foie gras.The Age - Latest News: “But in the end, the polls were right – nearly three-quarters of DC residents voted to ban foie gras”
- SupportedButterworth and major foie gras producers have signalled plans to challenge the ban.The Age - Latest News: “Butterworth’s and the major foie gras producers have signalled plans to challenge the ban.”
- SupportedNearly three-quarters of DC residents backed Initiative 86.The Age - Latest News: “nearly three-quarters of DC residents voted to ban foie gras”
- SupportedCritics said the measure pitted local chefs and foodies against out-of-town animal rights activists.The Age - Latest News: “leading critics to say the proposed foie gras ban was pitting local chefs and foodies against “out-of-town animal rights activists”.”
- SupportedThe approved ban covers force-feeding birds to enlarge their livers and importing products derived from that process.The Age - Latest News: “Initiative 86: a proposed ban on force-feeding birds to enlarge their livers, and a ban on importing products derived from that process.”
- SupportedA 2023 poll commissioned by an animal rights group found 78 per cent support for a foie gras ban.The Age - Latest News: “A poll of 438 registered Washington voters, taken in 2023 and commissioned by an animal rights group, found 78 per cent support for a ban on foie gras.”
- SupportedMayor-elect Janeese Lewis George voted for the ban.The Age - Latest News: “nearly three-quarters of DC residents voted to ban foie gras, including the mayor-elect, Janeese Lewis George.”
- SupportedButterworth said, “It's been amazing, the level of media interest.”The Age - Latest News: ““It’s been amazing, the level of media interest,” Butterworth says.”
- SupportedButterworth said the issue had potential nationwide implications and that “All of these things start somewhere.”The Age - Latest News: ““It’s somewhat of an obscure, just DC-based issue but, obviously, it has potential nationwide implications. All of these things start somewhere.””
- SupportedButterworth said DC government was struggling with small businesses leaving for Virginia and Maryland and called the ban another “slice in the death by a thousand bureaucratic paper cuts” for DC small business.The Age - Latest News: ““DC government is already struggling with losing small business to Virginia and Maryland, and this is another slice in the death by a thousand bureaucratic paper cuts for DC small business,” Butterworth said.”
- SupportedJose Andres wrote on X, “So, we are banning all meats? If duck goes, all goes next?”The Age - Latest News: ““So, we are banning all meats? If duck goes, all goes next?” he wrote on X last month.”
- SupportedHutchins said, “We sell the ears, the feet, the kidneys and the livers, everything – because it's wasteful not to.”The Age - Latest News: ““We sell the ears, the feet, the kidneys and the livers, everything – because it’s wasteful not to.””