In the misty foothills of Dali's Cangshan Mountain range, a sanctuary is emerging for China's burnt-out generations. Mona, 34, who splits her time between Dali and Shanghai, runs a retreat where disquieted souls engage in sound healing and meditation in a Mongolian yurt on unploughed farmland. "I've been seeing so many people who are working in cities, or their lives are so hard and so crazy," she says. "They press [down] their emotions and their thinking. They never talk to their family or their colleagues. Eventually, they get bad depression."
Since around 2021, as China's economic miracle faltered, a new influx of disillusioned youth has arrived. Youth unemployment is closing in on 20 per cent, and the labour market struggles to absorb 12 million new graduates each year. A January Goldman Sachs assessment found corporate hiring at its most depressed level in more than a decade outside the COVID-19 period.
Coco, 32, a former sales representative at Alibaba, arrived five years ago among early corporate refugees. "Many people who come to Dali now, it's because the economy is doing poorly, and they may have already been laid off by their companies," she says. "They figure there's nothing else they can do anyway, so they just come to Dali to first find themselves, or simply to take a break for a while." She has reinvented herself as a life coach, streaming sessions from her rented courtyard.
The Connected Youth Community hostel serves as a stepping-off point for many. Its communal area is stocked with enlightenment thinkers and feminist texts, and its walls advertise group philosophy sessions and talk therapy classes. Paul, 36, a long-term resident with a master's degree from Monash University, says Dali has a "free, tolerant, and open atmosphere, which is very rare in China." After high-pressure jobs in Beijing and Shanghai, he now works as a freelance tutor, hoping never to return to a traditional workplace. "The longest I ever worked was four days and four nights in a row without a proper sleep," says Johnny, describing his experience as a construction worker in Shanghai.
The cheap rent, Bai-style courtyard homes, and a community of like-minded individuals offer an alternative to the grind. But the influx of burnt-out youth raises questions about the sustainability of this off-grid economy and what it says about the state of China's dream.