The sky over Borneo has turned an amber hue under a thick blanket of smoke that has crossed international borders, but on the ground the danger is more intimate. Smoke seeps from the soil as giant subterranean peat fires continue to smoulder out of sight, poisoning the air with millennia-old carbon particles.
"It's like tear gas," said Dwi Sujatmoko, a 35-year-old volunteer firefighter who has spent more than a month fighting the flames. "It hits your nose straight away, your eyes burn. People say these fires are extraordinary because of the flames and the smoke. And they're right."
Armed with hand tools, carts and portable fire pumps, the volunteers are up against an inferno that has carbonised large swaths of forest and farmland since early July. Underground peat fires, which can persist for weeks or months, continue to smoulder, releasing toxic fumes and making containment difficult.
Sujatmoko warned of the broader consequences: "Once a fire becomes uncontrolled, it harms many people. Not just humans, but also animals and plants. If underground fire spreads and can no longer be controlled, the losses are enormous."
The blazes highlight the acute vulnerability of Indonesia's peatlands, which store vast amounts of carbon. When drained and set alight, they can burn for extended periods, releasing immense quantities of greenhouse gases and hazardous particulate matter. The health impacts on local communities and the economic toll from disrupted air travel and daily life remain unclear, but volunteer responders are already reporting respiratory and eye irritation from prolonged exposure to the toxic haze.