The Arabica saplings were brought across the border from Vietnam by French missionaries, who planted them next to an old church. The village's nascent Christian conversion did not survive the religious purges of the Cultural Revolution, but the coffee trees endured.
In this corner of China, long days of ploughing and harvesting on the mountainside are book-ended by coffee, not tea. 'Ever since I was little, as far back as I can remember, there have been coffee trees growing all around here,' said Li Jinrong, a 57-year-old third-generation coffee farmer. 'We make coffee as soon as we get up in the morning, drink it, go out to work and then have another cup before dinner.'
Coffee roasting practices in Zhukula have remained unchanged for decades. The beans are toasted over high heat using a wood-fired oil drum and a cast-iron wok for more than an hour.